Fitting the hob and sink unit is relatively simple, both featured clips that hold them down tightly to the worktop. Hobs typically have a thin foam or rubber seal around the edge and this suffices to keep any liquids out.
Just you understand whether you are qualified sufficient to reconnect the hob to the electrical supply. I would recommend you use a qualified electrician who will use the proper size/ type of cable television and link the hob correctly for safe usage. With gas hobs you need to use a Gas safe signed up plumber/engineer to connect the hob to the gas supply.
Before fitting the sink unit, if possible fit the tap( s) with 2 flexible water pipes to it, each around 30cm long (which will save a great deal of time when reconnecting the pipework) and also run a bead of clear sealant approximately 6– 8mm thick under the edge of the sink system which should be more than appropriate to keep out any liquid.
Position the sink system in place and tighten the clips up until it is safe and secure. Take care not to over-tighten the clips as they tend to ping off and are difficult to refit.
Eliminate any excess sealant from the outer edge of the sink system. Now you can fit the waste pipework and surface pipes in the pipes to the tap.
- Repairing blocks
- Fixing blocks
- Now the plinths can be cut to length and fitted.
They normally attach to the base system legs by means of plastic clips that are fixed to the reverse side of the plinth. The cornice and pelmet can also be cut to length.
Use a mitre saw power tool can provide a very good quality, clean cut and therefore a better surface, especially if any angled cuts are required. Don’t forget the goggles and face mask.
You might wish to wait before cutting the pelmet to length as any tiled walls might change its needed length.
Both the cornice and pelmet can be fitted to the wall units using fixing blocks with of course the proper size screws. Wall unit lights can be fitted, however once again you might wish to wait till any tiling has been completed.
Finally the drawers and doors can be fitted. Drawers are fairly simple to assemble following the instructions. Connect one door at a time to the units, hinges are generally in 2 parts, one for the system and one for the door. Fit the system one( s) first so they are ready to accept the door. Now fit the other parts to the door.
There are dimple marks on the reverse of the doors to suggest where to drill the holes, these holes should be drilled as straight as possible and with the appropriate size drill bit to fit the repairing screws for the manages
When fitting the doors make sure the two parts of the hinge mate together correctly otherwise it will be hard to change the door. As you look at the hinge, the screw at the back holds the door in place, the other one enables you to change the door later for positioning. When all the doors are fitted they can be changed so spaces between them are even and all doors are level.
When rounding off the new kitchen area its worth sealing any gaps at the back of the worktops with clear sealant so there is less danger of water damage before the wall(s) are tiled.
Any little gaps in between the cooking area units and the wall(s) can be filled using cuts of decorative clothed end panel. Doing this gives the cooking area a more professional finish.
As displayed in the image below, I partly filled a space in between a cleaning maker and a wall using a piece of 75 x 15mm timber with cabinet magnets on the reverse for ease of elimination. Just tiled the timber using liquid nails as an adhesive, it was simple to do and leaves a little gap for washing device motion.
The last task aside cleaning up and telling everybody how tough you have needed to work like I do, is to blank any pre-drilled holes in the units with the plastic blanks/ caps that feature the units.
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